Monday, November 21, 2005

 

New York Times Goes to Aburiya Kinnosuke

I was pleased to see that the New York Times gave my beloved Aburiya Kinnosuke a reasonably good review. I'm not really sure that I would agree with what Frank Bruni recommends, as I hardly think that chicken and meat are the best items on the menu -- and certainly not for a restaurant that really specializes in fish!

Here are a few priceless quotes.


This restaurant was clearly delighting them (Japanese businessmen), sating them and offering them something much closer to, and more consistent with, what they would get in Tokyo than what they would get in TriBeCa. That caught my attention, and my own delight kept me coming back for more.


So, obviously, the word is out that Aburiya Kinnosuke is where the Japanese go to eat something "authentic." And since there are so many Japanese now in New York -- unlike the 80s where, as my hairdresser used to tell me bitterly, a Japanese ex-pat might go hungry -- perhaps the menu can actually stay authentic.

Frank Bruni also has this amusing observation.


The menu is so expansive and arcane that a diner can encounter bad luck as easily as good and wind up with food that disappoints, if only because it's so peculiar. One night I blithely ventured in the direction of dried baby squid, only to make a hasty retreat after one repellently fishy, intensely funky bite.



Japanese food is wierd, y'all!

Seriously, it would have been nice if someone had been able to help guide Mr. Bruni through the menu. He also doesn't quite seem to have sampled the "kaiseki" option, which is something of a pity, especially when you consider another restaurant-which-shall-remain-nameless which gets rave reviews for its kaiseki and which, in my opinion, is nowhere near as good or as authentic as Aburiya Kinnosuke. It seems that while we have come a great distance since being squeamish about all things Japanese, it will be a while before all its flavors have an understanding audience.


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